Recently, the dry and hot Kunming has welcomed several bouts of rain; taking advantage of the leisurely charm of “rain pattering on plantain leaves,” I have “indulged” in tasting several different vintages of Pasha.
Tasting the same tea from different years simultaneously adds much exploratory interest to the tea-drinking experience. From profound freshness and floral aromas to a gradually maturing and mellow mouthfeel, time bestows a unique beauty upon the tea leaves.
This is the wonder of Pu-erh tea; the transition from freshness to mellowness is inherently intriguing. How does this transformation occur? What was the mindset of the person who made this tea at thatly time? What kind of vitality did the weather and phenology of that year infuse into it? In the “time chamber” where tea is treasured, through time-based storage and the carving of passing years, its story has no end.
1. Tasting the beauty of transformation bestowed by time
The Chinese know best how to use “time” as a seasoning; add some time to ham, and it becomes savory and fragrant; add some time to Pu-erh tea, and after its sharpness fades, it becomes mellow and fragrant.
Perhaps all food in this world is like this; if eaten too quickly, one always feels something is missing, but with the addition of “time,” a distinct flavor emerges.
Tasting from the 2021 spring tea, the fresh and bright tea soup is enveloped in the floral aromas of spring, as if one has stumbled into a damp forest in early spring, experiencing both the pleasure of bare feet stepping on wet leaves and the delight of raindrops dripping onto one’s forehead, their coolness spreading to the fingertips.
As for the 2020 Pasha, after one year of storage, much of its green astringency has faded, the mouthfeel has become increasingly heavy, and the aroma has begun to undergo noticeable changes.
After 3 years of aging, the dry Pasha leaves have become increasingly lustrous, the tea soup color has shifted from its original yellowish-green to a golden yellow, the honey aroma has become more intense, and the flavor even more mellow.
2. Collecting Pu-erh, where years leave their fragrance
Pu-erh tea “ages into fragrance,” which makes it a truly unique tea. However, the “fragrance” here does not refer to aroma, but rather to “goodness.” To “age into fragrance” means to become better with age; it implies that during the process of storage, the quality of Pu-erh tea improves over time, the body of the soup becomes thicker, and the throat rhyme grows deeper.
Transformation is the core of Pu-erh tea’s quality.
A standardized dry storage environment for Pu-erh tea requires ventilation, dryness, protection from light, and an absence of odors. In such an aerobic environment, many substances within the tea leaves undergo oxidation.
As the polyphenols in the tea leaves oxidize, the content of substances such as caffeine and tea polyphenols—which contribute bitterness and astringency—gradually decreases, while other substances like polysaccharides become more prominent. With the “dissipation” of tea polyphenols, tea pigments begin to form, and the color of the tea soup gradually transforms. For instance, the color of raw Pu-erh tea changes as its age increases, shifting from an initial yellowish-green toward golden yellow, orange-yellow, and orange-red…
Secondly, during the fixation process, enough active substances are preserved in the tea leaves for their subsequent transformation. During later storage, molecules within the tea leaves interact with one another, decomposing into various types of water-soluble polysaccharides, free amino acids, and other substances. As these substances increase, the body of the tea soup becomes thicker and the throat rhyme grows deeper.
Good raw materials + good craftsmanship + good storage = high-quality Pu-erh tea
Good raw materials are the first step. The rich and comfortable mouthfeel that the tea soup provides is closely linked to the internal quality of the leaves, which in turn is heavily dependent on the age of the tea trees, as well as their growing environment, light exposure, and temperature.
Good craftsmanship is the second step. Rigorous processing is a key factor in guaranteeing the subsequent transformation of Pu-erh tea, as it affects the retention of active substances within the leaves, as well as the potential and effectiveness of later transformation.
Finally, there is good storage. Proper storage allows the beauty of time to settle within the tea leaves, enabling one to savor characteristics that are even more mellow, smooth, and vibrant.
In short, Pu-erh tea shares an enduring and inseparable relationship with time. When tasting the same tea from different years, you will discover its beauty of transformation, as if you are in conversation with a person full of vibrant life.
It flows and transforms, much like a human life—with a beginning, a climax, and an end.
If you have enough patience, begin collecting tea; watch as it settles with the beauty of time, and enjoy the surprises it brings. Within the tea soup, experience the character of its place of origin and feel the charm of aged Pu-erh!
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Author: Lam Sam (LamSam), the Old Tea Head
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